Origin Deep Dive

Mexico

With Keegan Street, Head Roaster at Rooftop Coffee Roasters

Interview with Keegan Street, Head Roaster at Rooftop Coffee Roasters

“Mexico often gets called a new or an ‘emerging’ origin, which really annoys me because it’s partly true, but is far less interesting than the actual story.”
Keegan Street has built relationships at origin with Mexican coffee producers through his work at Rooftop Coffee Roasters. In this conversation, he shares why Mexico deserves more attention as a complex, innovative origin.
What makes Mexican coffee distinctive compared to other origins?
In recent decades, Mexico’s coffee production has sharply increased, but they’ve grown coffee for centuries. So, you have this interesting combination of generational knowledge and tradition, alongside young, motivated and innovative farmers who are growing the coffee scene. 
Mexico also has a dynamic and growing cafe and roastery scene, so producers have a short feedback loop between the farm and the coffee shops, which drives that innovation even further. This is mirrored by their culinary scene; centuries of tradition and heritage on one hand, avant garde restaurants, and forward-thinking chefs on the other. 
Coffee is grown all over Mexico but we only really see coffee from three states exported to Canada. Because of this vast diversity, the flavour I associate with Mexico is regionally specific. Chiapas brings a malty, sticky sweetness and stonefruit acidity, Oaxaca makes me think of toasty, comforting, lightly spicy cups, and Veracruz brings me memories of fruit-forward cups, bright acidity, and refreshing aftertastes.
What are the most common coffee processing methods, and what recent innovations are emerging?
Washed processing reigns supreme for the most part, but innovation is constant. There’s a lot of innovative trials, and I’m most excited about these intentional fermentation experiments, like mosto or lactic processing—things that subtly improve the complexity and structure in the cup without getting in the way too much. 
What coffee varieties do you commonly find in Mexico? 
It depends on the state. Oaxaca is known for Pluma, their local variation of Typica. My favourite Mexican coffees tend to be the classic varieties like Bourbon, Typica, Caturra, but those are becoming less common as hybrids like Catimors, Garnica, or Marsellesa are becoming more popular due to their resistance to factors caused by climate change. 
Can you forecast what the future of this coffee origin is going to look like? 
I try not to make predictions, but I find Mexico so inspiring. I think it’s the perfect environment for constant innovation. I could see it almost becoming six origins in one—a place to get your classic, comfort coffees, bright crisp citrusy cups, and funky experimentals all within the same country. A true one-stop shop.

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